Babbacombe to Dawlish Warren: South West Coast Path Day 41 Guide

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Dragging myself out of an actual bed was even harder today than yesterday, since I knew it’d be the last time I did for the rest of the walk. Don’t get me wrong, I love sleeping in my cozy little tent…I just that after six weeks of it, I’d loved sleeping in a real bed even more.

After a decent breakfast at Babbacombe Bay Cafe where I ate all of mine and half of Lauren’s as well (apparently that hiker hunger hasn’t gone away), I bid farewell to everyone and headed out the door. The next time I’d see any of them would be at the finish line!

Rejoining the path back down beside the bottom of the cliff railway, I walked off into the trees and straight back up the hill again. The forecast had been for rain all day, but despite the thick grey clouds, there was no need for a jacket quite yet.

In contrast to yesterday’s easy and mostly flat walking, the first half of today was anything but. Take a look at the elevation chart above: it’s either up or down for the entire first six miles, with nothing in between!

After climbing through attractive woodland, I briefly emerged onto Saint Marychurch Road before turning right down a lane and back towards the coast. Thanks to a cliff fall at some point, it’s a convoluted way of getting out of Babbacombe, but it wasn’t long until I was back on dirt paths through the trees. That’s where I stayed for the rest of the morning.

Well, I guess it wasn’t only trees beside the trail: this section also had some of the larger clumps of stinging nettles I’d seen in a while. They’d been cut back, at least, so I could admire them rather than swear at them like I usually would. They’re quite pretty when they’re not irritating the hell out of your legs.

Despite the rollercoaster trail and lack of sea views, I was enjoying the walking. There aren’t all that many extended woodland sections like this on the Coast Path, and this one was really quite dense in patches. I figured if the rain did show up, at least I’d have some shelter: it’d be a nice change from the usual approach of being completely exposed on an open cliff!

After about an hour I found myself passing a field, where several young black cows trotted over to the fence to check me out. I always forget how curious cows can be, especially at that age. If these ones could talk, I’m sure they’d have been asking me what I was doing and why I felt the need to walk such a long way. Don’t worry, cows, some days I ask myself the same question.

Speaking of wildlife, half an hour later after passing through the hamlet of Maidencombe, I was surprised to see a sign warning me about a badger set nearby. Sure enough, there was a badger-sized hole in the ground right on the edge of the path; it didn’t seem like the greatest place to build a home, but what would I know? I’m not a badger.

Disappointingly there was no sign of Mr or Mrs Badger themselves: I’ve never seen one in the wild, and apparently that wasn’t going to change today.

The path had been up and down all morning, but it decided to really lean into that as I got closer to Shaldon. Three steep climbs and deep valleys awaited, including a long, slippery grass trail for the final descent down the hill towards The Ness and into town. Yet again, I’d have ended up on my ass more than once if it wasn’t for my hiking poles. I really can’t recommend them enough.

From the hill, I’d been able to see Teignmouth on the other side of the estuary. To get there from Shaldon, I had two choices: a seasonal ferry that runs across the mouth of the river, or a 1½ mile detour over the bridge upstream. You’ll be shocked to hear I didn’t add the extra distance.

There’d been a light sprinkle of rain as I’d been coming down the hill, and the clouds had been getting darker and darker as I waited for the boat to return to my side of the river. A few other people got on at the same time, and with impeccable timing, the heavens opened just as we pushed off from the shore. Did I mention it’s an open-top boat?

Completely drenched by the time we got to the other side, I squelched my way along the promenade to the nearest place serving coffee and threw myself inside. There wasn’t much happening at Halulu, but my drink was hot and I didn’t get rained on while I drank it. Good enough for me.

I sat there for a while waiting for the rain to stop, gazing out the window at the Grand Pier. It didn’t look particularly “grand” on this gloomy day, more “dilapidated and run down”, and it sadly looks even worse now: Storm Ingrid took a large chunk off the end of it earlier this year.

The rain eventually slowed to a light drizzle, so I downed the last of my drink and continued along the promenade before ducking into the main part of town. I’d planned to stop for lunch at a well-rated vegan restaurant to give my body a break from its recent deep-fried diet, but it was closed for some reason. Oh well, can’t say I didn’t try. A pasty and Coke from the nearby bakery had to suffice.

Back out beside the beach, I strode down the rest of the promenade and out of town. From here, the path runs along a sea wall beside the railway tracks for a mile and a half: it’s dead straight, dead flat, and a hell of a lot easier than anything else I’d walked today.

A couple of trains whistled past, passengers gazing out disinterestedly at the slightly-damp walker a few feet from their window. Other than a few hardy souls out with their dogs, they were the only people I saw for a while. It wasn’t really much of a day for sightseeing, I guess.

The path turned left under the railway tracks at the end of the sea wall, detouring around the headland and along the A379 for a short distance through Holcombe before returning towards the coast.

On the other side, the trail stayed inland of the railway tracks on the edge of several fields as it took a wide loop around to the edge of Dawlish. From here, it ran along Old Teignmouth Road into town, just below the A road: it was a lot nicer than walking on the main road itself.

The path runs along the sea wall all the way between Dawlish and Dawlish Warren, and like the one I’d just walked along out of Teignmouth, it’s a mile and a half of straight, flat, easy walking between the cliffs and railway tracks on one side and ocean on the other.

Well, unless there’s strong winds and a high tide, I guess, when waves regularly crash over top of the path to drench unsuspecting walkers. In really bad weather this section can be impassable: even today, which wasn’t especially windy in the grand scheme of things, I had to time a couple of short sections to avoid getting sprayed by the crashing waves.

It was exhilarating rather than unsafe, but I was glad I hadn’t been here four or five days ago in the midst of those damn 60+ mph winds!

The sea wall and path curved slightly to the left at Red Rock, so-named because it’s a rock and it’s red, before continuing on along the sea wall as far as a footbridge over the railway tracks. There, it took an unexpected turn away from the coast and beach, instead heading over the bridge, past a carpark, and into town.

Note: after the winter storms that damaged a lot of this section in early 2026, the seawall is currently closed for repairs between Dawlish and Red Rock. It seems unlikely to reopen until sometime in April: until then, there’s a diversion along the cliffs instead. You may also be able to walk along the beach at low tide, but be careful: it’s easy to get caught out here.

I hadn’t been sure how far I’d walk today, but when I realised the ferry I needed in the morning didn’t start running until after 10 a.m., I decided to stay here in Dawlish Warren. There was another campsite closer to the ferry, but that just meant sitting around for ages tomorrow in a place with fewer facilities.

Instead, I turned off onto Mount Pleasant Road for a half-mile stroll up the hill to Leadstone Camping, my home for the night. In a sign from the weather gods, the sun came out for the first time today as I walked in the front gate: by the time I’d paid too much for my pitch and got the tent up, there was blue sky all around.

I’d passed the Mount Pleasant Inn as I was walking to the campsite, and figured that barring a miraculous burst of energy this evening, that’d be where I ended up for dinner. That burst of energy never materialised, and I’m glad of it: the mushroom pie and cider at the pub turned out to be exactly what I felt like that night, and the views over the bay in the evening sun were glorious.

This was very much one of those “days of two halves” that I’d had a few of lately: strenuous walking and a decent amount of rain in the morning, easy, flat, and fine all afternoon. Having an easier second half of the day and being forced to walk a shorter distance was no bad thing: I’d been feeling pretty exhausted lately, and my body appreciated the extra rest.

Speaking of extra rest, I was back in my tent and fast asleep as soon as time the sun went down. Which at this time of year, was about 7 p.m. I’m so rock and roll right now.

Planning

Started at: Airbnb in Babbacombe (0.6 miles/0.9km off-trail)

Finished at: Leadstone Camping (0.6 miles/0.9km off-trail)

Other than the price (£18 was the most I’d paid for a one-person tent anywhere on the Coast Path so far), there was a lot to like about Leadstone Camping. The facilities were unusually modern, with clean shower and toilet block and a laundry room where I could charge my phone and power bank.

Showers cost 20p for five minutes, which was a bit on the nose given what I’d already paid to stay there, but hardly the end of the world. My pitch got plenty of evening sun, was relatively flat, and right beside a large hedge that gave plenty of shelter, at least until the wind decided to change direction late in the evening!

There were food and coffee vans onsite, but none of them were open in the evening after I arrived or by the time I left in the morning. I think that’s an end-of-season thing, though: I’d be surprised if they didn’t have longer hours in the height of summer.

There’s a small camp shop there as well, but in any case it took under ten minutes to walk down to the Mount Pleasant Inn for dinner, which had great views and good food.

Transport and Parking

This section is unusually well-served by public transport, giving plenty of options for a shorter day or leaving a car somewhere and returning to it by bus or train.

Your best option is the number 11 bus, which runs from Torquay through Babbacombe and then along the A379 close to the coast all the way to Dawlish Warren. You should be able to find a lane or public footpath near most of the stops that will take you down to the Coast Path: the map I used shows all the options.

The only places you won’t be able to get on or off the path as easily are along the sea wall, first between Teignmouth and Dawlish and then between Dawlish and Dawlish Warren.

The bus runs once an hour almost every day of the year, starting later and finishing earlier on Sundays and bank holidays.

There’s also the option of taking a train between Torquay and Teignmouth, Dawlish, or Dawlish Warren. It’s quite a bit quicker, so if the station locations match up with the walk you’d like to do, definitely consider it.

If you wanted to leave a car somewhere and take a bus or train back to it later in the day, there are plenty of places to do so.

Torquay has several different carparks, some of which offer (pricey) all-day parking. Options close to the path include Abbey, Harbour, and Beacon Quay carparks, but before choosing any of them, try for a spot in the free parking lot at Daddyhole Plain.

There’s also paid long-stay parking at Meadfoot Beach, and Kilmorie just down the road, as well as Anstey’s Cove, Walls Hill, and in Babbacombe.

Watcombe Beach has free parking, and there’s paid all-day parking at nearby Maidencombe Beach (cash only) as well, plus a few free spots on the road on the way in. The path basically runs through the carpark, and you’ll get a refund for up to three hours of parking if you have a meal at the Thatched Tavern nearby.

There’s long-stay parking at Labrador Bay, and at The Ness just outside Shaldon. On the other side of the river, the closest long-stay carparks to the trail are at The Point, Eastcliff, or beside the railway station, but there’s also a free option at Lower Bitton Park if you’d prefer to try that first.

You may be able to find the odd free on-road spot on side streets around town, but much of it is permit holders only.

You’ll find a free long-stay parking lot on Coronation Ave in Dawlish, and paid versions at Barton Hill and Sandy Lane. In Dawlish Warren, there are paid long-stay carparks either side of the railway tracks beside the station. There’s also some free on-street parking on side streets in both villages.

River Crossing

There’s a single river crossing today, from Shaldon to Teignmouth across the mouth of the Teign estuary.

The small ferry that I took operates year-round, albeit with a restricted service during the colder months. From April to October, the boat runs every day from 10 a.m. until 4:40 p.m. November to March, it runs Wednesday through Sunday and at half-terms, from 10 a.m. until 3:40 p.m.

Bad weather and tides can affect whether the boat can safely run, so check the Facebook page or call/WhatsApp the boat driver on 07896 711822 to confirm as needed. A single ticket costs £2.50, paid onboard (cash only).

If the boat isn’t running on the day or time you require, the alternative is a 1½ mile detour over the Shaldon bridge upstream. You can see the bridge from the ferry landing point, so just keep walking along the road to get there.

Cross over, then go through the park and walk back along the other side, crossing over the railway tracks on Clay Lane, Quay Road, Northumberland Place/The Strand, and on down to the ferry point on Lifeboat Lane.

Waymarking and Navigation

Other than a slightly-confusing route to get out of Babbacombe and the occasional side trail while walking through the woods between there and Teignmouth, there aren’t too many places to go wrong today. Waymarking was pretty good, even in the towns and villages.

It’s physically impossible to take a wrong turn while walking along either of the sea walls between villages, since you’ll end up on the railway tracks or in the ocean if you do.

You’ll want a map if you’re planning to use public transport to get on or off the path between Babbacombe and Teignmouth, however, just to find the right public footpath or laneway to use.

I used AllTrails as my main navigation app for the entire South West Coast Path, and it worked well throughout: you can find the Babbacombe to Dawlish Warren section here. The app is free to use, although I pay a couple of pounds a month for a subscription so I can download maps to my phone in advance.

Phone Service

While I had good service close to Babbacombe, large chunks of the morning were in more remote areas where phone signal feared to tread, at least with O2. Closer to Shaldon and Dartmouth, and most of the rest of the way to Dawlish Warren, it was noticeably better. There wasn’t a lot of signal at the campsite, but still enough to be usable.

As a backup, I’d also paid a few pounds for a data eSIM from Instabridge that let me swap between all three UK networks, EE, O2, and Vodafone/Three. It worked really well as a fallback option all along the Coast Path: if I didn’t have service with my usual provider, I’d just switch to another. As long as there were any mobile phone towers in range, I’d have service.

Facilities

Babbacombe has all the food and drink options you need, including Zoo Cafe that opens at 8 a.m. The other cafes in the area don’t open until 9 a.m., including Babbacombe Bay Cafe where I enjoyed my meal and half of Lauren’s. Since today’s section was shorter than the last few, starting a bit later wasn’t an issue.

There’s also a Tesco Express just off Babbacombe Road if you need to resupply or buy snacks, since the only options on the trail are at Maidencombe. There, you’ll find a cafe beside the beach and the Thatched Tavern pub that opens for lunch and dinner.

Once you get to Shaldon or Teignmouth (especially the latter), it’s a different story. There are three cafes and two pubs on the way into the village and along the river in Shaldon, while Teignmouth has many pubs, cafes, and restaurants both along the promenade and elsewhere. For a wider range and better prices, head into the town centre a street or two back from the beach.

There’s a seasonal kiosk at the start of Smugger’s Lane just after you’ve gone under the railway tracks outside Holcombe, and The Castle Inn, a quarter-mile off the trail on Holcombe Road.

The path goes straight past the beach kiosk near the Dawlish marina, and after that you’re in Dawlish itself, which has all of the choices you might want clustered mostly along the river.

There’s a seasonal kiosk right beside the path at Red Rock on the way into Dawlish Warren, and a short time later you’re in town with its variety of food and drink options. As I mentioned earlier, I enjoyed my meal at the Mount Pleasant Inn.

Accommodation

Campsites on this section are somewhat limited, but it’s nowhere near as bad as yesterday! Orchard Organic Farm is half a mile inland at Higher Gabwell, with a few tent pitches and discounted rates for walkers.

Longmeadow Farm in Shaldon also has discounted rates for walkers, and then there’s nothing until Dawlish Warren: there, you’ve got both Five Trees Camping (July-August only) and Leadstone Camping where I stayed.

If you’re not planning to sleep in a tent, there are several other choices available, although unfortunately many are holiday lets with multi-night minimum stays.

Orchard Organic Farm that I mentioned above as a campsite also has glamping pods, and places like Potters Mooring guesthouse in Shaldon and the Cliffden Hotel in Teignmouth offer reasonably-priced one-night stays.

Other somewhat-affordable places include the inexpensive but basic Railway Inn in Dawlish and the Langstone Cliff Hotel in Dawlish Warren. You could also continue along the path for another mile and a half to this apartment in Cockwood, which is probably the best bang-for-buck in the area.