Loving My Neighbourhood: A Quick Fitzroy Guide

I’ve been living in Fitzroy, a mile or two north of the the Melbourne CBD, on and off for more than 20 years. It’s changed a lot over that time, but I loved it when I first moved here and I still love it now.

More than anywhere I’ve lived in the past, Fitzroy is a place with personality. 

Melbourne’s first and smallest suburb, it’s crammed full of fantastic restaurants and bars, boutiques and galleries, and heritage buildings that, thanks to passionate residents, haven’t yet all been knocked down by overzealous developers.

From the crowded pavement cafes of Brunswick Street to local pubs tucked away down quiet back streets, from the pumping live music scene to the open parkland of Carlton Gardens, I spend hours each week just wandering round enjoying everything this wonderful neighbourhood has to offer.

Here’s my highly subjective tour of Fitzroy that takes in a few of the places I return to time and again. There’s always somewhere new that’s opened and somewhere else to explore, however, so if you have a favourite spot in this little slice of Melbourne’s inner north, I’d love to hear about it!

There’s no shortage of incredible breakfast options in and around this neighbourhood. If the sun is shining and your hangover can handle the brightness, find an outdoor table at Stagger Lee’s on the corner of Brunswick and Victoria Streets, and enjoy one of the best brunches in the area.

My personal favourite is the anchovies (don’t knock it til you’ve tried it, they aren’t anything like the tiny salted versions you get on pizzas!), but I’ve tried half a dozen other options on the menu as well and never come back disappointed.

Honourable mentions also go to Himalayan-influenced Elektra just down the road on Brunswick St with its delicious variations on traditional brunch fare, Dusty’s, a recent and quirky addition to the cafe scene on Johnson St (try the kimchi melt and thank me later), and Arcadia, on ever-popular Gertrude St.

The menus all offer something a bit different, and are all absolutely worth your time and money. I spend far too much of both at these places!

If you’d prefer to just pick up a pastry and eat it while you explore, Lune Croissanterie makes probably the best croissants you’ll find outside France. They’re remarkably good, but also remarkably popular: more than anywhere else on this list, I’d suggest visiting during the week if you want to avoid an hour-long line.

Keep your eyes open while you’re wandering the streets, not only to avoid being run down by a tram, but also so you can check out the spectacular street art that seems to make an appearance on pretty much any flat surface in the suburb. Including the side of my building when I woke up one morning last week, but that’s another story.

I’ve got no idea how much of it is officially sanctioned, and if so who by, but regardless, it’s fantastic.  There’s plenty of it on Rose Street, and I’ve spotted some great pieces in various spots on Fitzroy, Victoria, and Young Streets as well, but it all changes regularly and there’ll be something new by the time you read this. There are some very talented people out there.

Also on Rose St (between Brunswick and Nicholson Sts) is the weekend Rose Street Market where you can happily while away half an hour or so. It’s relatively small, ideal for people like me who start to get market rage after not very long, and because all of the stuff for sale is made by local artisans, it tends to be different every time you go there.

It’s a great place to find an unusual gift, one-off piece of clothing, or unique reminder of your time in Melbourne. I’ve bought gifts for various family members and a random selection of stuff for myself over the years, from weird drink coasters to locally-themed plant pots, t-shirts, cosmetics, and jewellery, and there’s something new that catches my eye every time I visit.

Once you’re done, head back to Brunswick St and spend the rest of the morning checking out the array of bookshops, fashion stores, gift and art shops, plant stores, and whatever else you can think of.  Personally I find the best section is between about Hanover St and Rose St, but I’m hardly a shopping guru, so feel free to explore further afield and disagree!

Gertrude St also has a wide range of cool little shops and galleries to explore, so allow plenty of time to wander down there as well.  The thing I like about both of these streets is that most of the stores are independently-owned: there are very few chain stores in the area, thank god.

This may mean that prices are a bit higher than in the malls, but the quality, uniqueness, and experience of spending any time in them is so much better! Not to mention there’s a good chance your money is going to a local, rather than some huge, faceless corporation.

If you need a bit of chill out time after all that shopping, head over to Carlton Gardens and the Melbourne Museum. With several hectares of grassy areas and hundreds of inviting trees, there’s no better place to lie and read a book for a few hours.

The museum is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere and one of Melbourne’s premier attractions, s o you could easily spend several hours just exploring there. Even if you don’t have time for it right now, find out what the current special exhibit is to see if it’s worth coming back to check it out another day.

It’s also worth taking a look to see if they’re running tours of the Royal Exhibition building at the moment; it’s something that’s only started recently, and they don’t run all the time, but I really enjoyed it when I did it. I learned a lot about the history of this fascinating UNESCO-listed building, with views from the top that you can’t get anywhere else. Worth the money!

By this stage you’ll undoubtedly be in need of liquid refreshment. I feel like I’ve been on a one-man mission to find the best coffee in Fitzroy for a long time now, and a couple of my current favourites are Bell St Coffee Window (clue’s in the name) and on the other side of Brunswick Street and down a bit, Awa French Crêperie. If you’re peckish, also try the crepes at the latter: they’re life-changing.

Both cafes epitomise what makes Fitzroy so great: small, local places that don’t try to do a million different things or cater for everyone, but just crank out consistently excellent coffee with a smile day after day. And that’s why I keep going back, day after day.

If you’re looking for something a little stronger and the sun is out, there’s nothing better than a cold drink or five during an afternoon session at The Standard Hotel on Fitzroy St. Don’t let the bland exterior fool you, one of the best and biggest beer gardens in the area lies inside.

With plenty of tables and shady spots under the trees and umbrellas, excellent pub grub, live music now and then, and a wide selection of cold beers on tap, this friendly neighbourhood pub is an absolute winner. Get there early to get a seat outside at the weekends, though: it’s a popular spot with the locals.

Once (or if) you manage to drag yourself away from the Standard, stumble a couple of hundred metres back up Brunswick St for dinner at The Vegie Bar. A vegetarian-only Fitzroy institution, this place has been around since the late 80s, and despite being huge, seems to be packed to the rafters every time I visit.

That’s not an issue, though: turnover is fast and there’s a cozy little area out the back where you can enjoy a drink while waiting for a table to free up. I’m not vegetarian and yet I choose to dine there regularly, which is probably the best review I can give it.

Cheap, tasty, and excellent food, with funky staff and an eclectic clientele, for me this place totally sums up what I love about this neighbourhood.

To finish off the night, there’s an enormous collection of pubs and bars to drink yourself stupid and dance the night away (or to regale the locals with your vast collection of interesting stories). The Evelyn has live music from bands that you’ve probably never heard of but who will be headlining a festival somewhere in a few years.

The Provincial transforms itself from an almost wine bar-esque feel during the week to a heaving mass of humanity at the weekends (check out the rooftop terrace on a sunny evening), while the Rainbow attracts a slightly older crowd that makes the most of the beer garden, especially on a Sunday afternoon when a band invariably shows up for a few hours.

Whatever your style, you’ll find somewhere to spend the night (and probably much of the early morning) nearby.

So, that’s my neighbourhood, and I love it.  Feel free to comment and add your own favourite places below – who knows, there’s a good chance I’ll see you there!