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Beers and broken relationships in Zagreb

August 15, 2012 | Croatia, Travel | 13 Comments
Zagreb churches and roofs

When you hear about Croatia from anyone who has been there, it’s all about the beaches.

“You have to go to Dubrovnik”, people cry.  “The islands are amazing”, they say.

And I’m sure they are… but it seems that if something in Croatia isn’t on the coast, it’s just not worth talking about.  Hell, the Plitvice Lakes National Park gets upwards of a million visitors per year, and yet I’d never even heard of it before arriving in the country.

So it’s no surprise, however, that I didn’t have particularly high expectations for my time in Zagreb.  Just another European capital, I figured.  A few pretty buildings, perhaps.  A church or two, for sure.  Probably an old town of some sort.

Just the usual.

And yes, it definitely has all of those things.  In abundance, in fact.  The compact old town is easily walkable, with a long strip of restaurants and bars leading up Tkalčićeva Street from the main square.  It’s the kind of place you go to drink over-priced beers and wear your best crumpled shirt in the hope you’ll look less like a backpacker and more like the beautiful people that surround you.

That never works, of course, but at least the beer was cold, and the waiters always seemed to be cheerful.  They were probably just laughing at my shirt, now that I think about it.

Truth be told, though, if all that Zagreb had going for it was some cobbled streets, decent restaurants and a few pretty statues, it wouldn’t really be all that unusual.  A nice place to stop for a night, perhaps, but not much more.

Zagreb horse and rider statue

Zagreb has at least one thing, however, that you won’t find anywhere else in the world.

The Museum of Broken Relationships.

The brainchild of two Zagreb artists who broke up after several years together, the museum celebrates (if that is the right word) failed relationships.  It is one of those places that you feel a little strange walking in to – not least of all when you’re there with a girlfriend…

Tempting fate, much?

Unsure what to expect, within seconds I was utterly transfixed.  Consisting of a mixture of everyday objects – books, clothes, cell phones – and more unusual items – the axe used to chop an ex’s furniture into pieces, or a pair of handcuffs – it’s actually the text that accompanied each exhibit that most affected me.

Written by the person that donated it, these simple white cards tore at the heartstrings.  Anger, anguish, relief and despair flowed out.  I’m sure the donations and the writing were cathartic for the contributor, but many of them were painful to read for voyeuristic visitors like me.

Iron, Broken Relationships museum

Peering out of the corner of my eye, I noticed plenty of tears at the museum that day.  I don’t imagine that is even slightly unusual.

Abandoned wedding dresses.  Broken glass.  Photos.  Sex toys.  And the most painful exhibit of all, a flashing dog collar.  I’m not going to tell you why.  Just go and have a look for yourself.

Stepping back out of the museum an hour later, the laughing conversations and bright sunlight seemed out of place after the quiet soundtrack that had been playing inside my head.

The Museum of Broken Relationships received an award last year marking it as the “Most Innovative Museum in Europe”, and it’s not hard to see why.  I’ve never been anywhere quite like it, and it was easily one of the best small museums I’ve ever been to.

Walking back down the road towards the edge of the hill, an encompassing view of Zagreb laid out before us, I wondered how best to process all that we had just seen.

Spotting the tables laid out under the shade of a few welcoming trees, the answer became at once apparent.  I dealt with a challenging emotional situation in the time-honoured way that all good Kiwi males do.

I sat down and had a beer.

Success.

 

This trip through Central and Eastern Europe is made possible by the good folks at Eurail.com.

The Friday Photo #123 – Sighisoara's City Hall
Croatia's Plitvice Lakes: just go there already

13 Comments

  1. Reply

    Monica

    August 15, 2012

    I've always wanted to go to the museum of broken relationships but in a weird way I hadn't thought about how sad it would be. I feel a bit silly now! Definitely looks like somewhere worth visiting though.

  2. Reply

    DebbZ

    August 15, 2012

    Wow, I've never heard about museum of broken relationship. Very interesting. I should check it out when I visit Croatia :D

  3. Reply

    What an interesting museum!!!

  4. Reply

    Nigel D

    August 15, 2012

    What a fascinating place to spend an hour. I had to laugh at your way of 'dealt with a challenging situation' even half a world away from your Kiwi roots.

  5. Reply

    suki

    August 16, 2012

    how absolutely fascinating. :-) that's my kind of museum. in LA, we visited the museum of death.

  6. Reply

    Candice

    August 16, 2012

    I HAD to look up the flashing dog collar, the suspense nearly killed me. I need to see this museum.

  7. Reply

    maq203

    August 17, 2012

    I wonder who contributed these items to the museum....Regardless, sounds very interesting.

  8. Reply

    Amanda

    August 20, 2012

    How awesome is that museum??

    I was secretly REALLY excited to have a 3-hour layover in Zagreb in the middle of my train journey from Split to Ljubljana. I spent at least half of that time in that museum. It's fascinating!

  9. Reply

    creative nomad

    August 25, 2012

    wow! what a place! what a must see! I love invading peoples lifes and hearing their stories, I bet I would love this!

  10. Reply

    kristina kristoforina

    October 23, 2012

    well, i am a local and that museum is rather funny than sad and it has the best souvenier ever; bad memory erraser!


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