{"id":8976,"date":"2014-09-03T06:34:43","date_gmt":"2014-09-03T11:34:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/?p=8976"},"modified":"2014-09-03T06:34:43","modified_gmt":"2014-09-03T11:34:43","slug":"belize-like-you-but","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/belize-like-you-but\/","title":{"rendered":"Belize, I Like You, But&#8230;"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>After a <a href=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/side-trip-belize-tikal\/\">quick side trip to Tikal<\/a>, we returned to Belize and headed for the coast. What it lacked in jungles and ruins, it seemed to more make up for in beaches, and that was just fine by me. Plus, with distances being so short, we figured it was relatively easy to get from one place to another without taking all day to do so.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Apparently, we figured wrong. The 200km trip from San Ignacio to Placencia ended up taking over nine hours, involving three buses, a long and miserable wait and a kind-hearted water taxi driver who saved the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019ll admit that wasn\u2019t quite how I\u2019d imagined things would go when I\u2019d woken up that morning\u2026 but on the upside, there were <a href=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/bloody-welcome-belize\/\">fewer dead bodies<\/a> this time around.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_e91b99-0a .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_e91b99-0a .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-8976_e91b99-0a\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Bus rides in Belize aren\u2019t renowned for their comfort or speed, but the trip to Belmopan was about as good as it ever got. Clattering into the bus station late morning, though, I was struck by the number of people crowded inside the terminal. It was a Saturday, and it seemed as if everyone in Belize had decided they needed to be somewhere else that day. With buses running south only once an hour, it seemed as if we could be in for a long wait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>We were.<\/strong> Four and a half hours, in fact, as buses pulled up, offloaded half a dozen passengers and departed again with the few lucky souls who had managed to fight their way to the front of the line. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We finally made it onto the third bus to arrive, only to be kicked off again because police just up the road had decided to clamp down on standing passengers. It hadn\u2019t been a problem on any other trip, but now it was, and we were unceremoniously pushed back inside the terminal once again to sweatily wait another hour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This hadn&#8217;t been&nbsp;a great travel day, and it wasn\u2019t about to get any better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Placencia-bus1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"359\" src=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Placencia-bus1.jpg\" alt=\"Placencia bus\" class=\"wp-image-8990\" srcset=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Placencia-bus1.jpg 640w, https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Placencia-bus1-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Placencia-bus1-500x280.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>To get from Belmopan to Placencia required another change of buses, this time in Dangriga. From there, occasional buses ran down a peninsula and direct to the town, while others stopped in Independence and required a short water taxi ride across the lagoon. We\u2019d already missed the last direct bus, and the water taxis ended with the daylight.&nbsp; The final&nbsp;scheduled service left at 6pm. We eventually&nbsp;rolled into town at 6:15.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A nearby taxi driver suggested we\u2019d be able to pay a fisherman to take us across, so we piled into his dilapidated Toyota and bumped our way down to the docks. The skipper of the water taxi driver was sitting down chatting to his friends, but when I apologetically interrupted to ask whether he knew someone that could help, the reply was quick and unexpected.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;I can take you&#8221;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As it turned out, he had to return to Placencia to pick up a few local workers, and had no problem with us tagging along for the ride. We\u2019d struck our first piece of good luck for the day, and ten minutes later we were walking up the sandy main street towards our guesthouse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tomorrow really had to be a better day.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_20ba6b-8a .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_20ba6b-8a .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-8976_20ba6b-8a\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>The next day<i>&nbsp;<\/i>was indeed much better, and our&nbsp;struggle to get to Placencia turned out to be&nbsp;worth the effort. It was my favourite spot in Belize, all white sand beaches and laid-back vibe. As with everywhere else in the country neither food nor accommodation were cheap, but I didn\u2019t mind quite as much when our&nbsp;room was a few feet from the ocean and my office looked like this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Dave-laptop-Belize.jpg\" alt=\"Dave on laptop in Placencia\" title=\"Dave on laptop in Placencia\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>When I wasn\u2019t working on my laptop I was working on my tan, and our four nights in Placencia quickly fell into a routine. Try to find somewhere affordable for breakfast, lie on the beach, try to find somewhere affordable for lunch, lie on the beach, try to find somewhere affordable for dinner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You might be sensing a theme here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Still, despite the costs, I was sad to leave Placencia \u2013 particularly because the only direct\u00a0bus option to get to Caye Caulker left at the unpleasant hour of 6.15am. At least it went straight\u00a0to Belize City, mind you\u2026 if I never saw the inside of Belmopan station again, it would be too soon.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_f9a3f8-85 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_f9a3f8-85 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-8976_f9a3f8-85\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>We\u2019d allowed ourselves five nights on the caye, mainly because it was our final stop in Central America for a while. While we\u2019d heard that it had barely any beaches, friends had raved about the chilled-out bars and fun atmosphere, and we were looking forward to a bit of laid-back island life.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kb-image8976_5071cb-0d .kb-image-has-overlay:after{opacity:0.3;}<\/style>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image8976_5071cb-0d\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Caye-Caulker-Front-Street_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Caye Caulker, Front Street\" class=\"kb-img\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>I wanted to love Caye Caulker, I really did\u2026 but for some reason I just didn\u2019t get the appeal. In the absence of beaches, everyone seemed to congregate at \u2018the Split\u2019, a gap between the two parts of the island that\u2019s about the only good swimming spot. I\u2019m not sure exactly what I expected as I walked down there \u2013 but it wasn\u2019t a hundred backpackers lounging around on broken walls and a concrete slab while thundering dance music boomed from the nearby bar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I laid my towel down on the gritty surface, drank a watery fruit cocktail and hung around trying to read a book for an hour, before wandering back home and wondering what all the fuss was about. To be fair, things did improve as I walked around the back section of the island in the evening \u2013 if you want a peaceful spot to enjoy the sunset, that\u2019s the place to do it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In a country that was already expensive, island prices were even higher. Caye Caulker has long been known as one of the more budget-friendly places in Belize, but we still struggled to find a double room under $50 USD\/night there. There were a couple of decent food options for around ten US&nbsp;dollars&nbsp;(a good pizza joint just beside our little hotel, and Fran\u2019s seafood bbq on the front road), but alcohol was pricey, and overall there was nothing you couldn&#8217;t find in many other parts of the world for a lot less.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Caye-Caulker-pier-e1409744476302.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"456\" src=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Caye-Caulker-pier-e1409744476302.jpg\" alt=\"Caye Caulker pier\" class=\"wp-image-8975\" srcset=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Caye-Caulker-pier-e1409744476302.jpg 600w, https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Caye-Caulker-pier-e1409744476302-150x114.jpg 150w, https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Caye-Caulker-pier-e1409744476302-500x380.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>I think that was my problem with Belize in general, really. It was undoubtedly a beautiful country, with dense jungles and well-preserved&nbsp;ruins, some great beaches and, in the main, friendly and helpful locals. The language, culture and food are different to its neighbours, which is always something that interests me. But\u2026 and it\u2019s a big but\u2026 it\u2019s a difficult place to be a budget traveller.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I understand that Belize is a small nation, with little&nbsp;economy of scale and a need to import much&nbsp;of what it consumes. When basic infrastructure like roads, buses and internet is so limited, though, it\u2019s hard to get excited about paying as much for a room as I would in central Europe or the touristy parts of Mexico, and more for food than I would in the US.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Wherever I travel, there\u2019s a basic value for money equation that subconsciously runs through my head. \u201cIs this place worth it for me?. Am I getting good value for the money I\u2019m spending?\u201d. Sometimes I\u2019ll be dropping $100 a day and saying \u201cyes, definitely\u201d, other times I\u2019ll be spending a quarter of that and thinking \u201cno, not at all.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Unfortunately, for me at least, Belize fell into the latter category. I liked it, but I just couldn\u2019t love it. I know I\u2019ll return to <a href=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/category\/travel\/places\/north-america\/mexico\/\">Mexico<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/whatsdavedoing.com\/category\/travel\/guatemala\/\">Guatemala<\/a>, and plan to travel extensively through the rest of Central and South America in coming years. When it comes to Belize, however? Sadly, it\u2019s not somewhere I feel much of a draw to return to any time soon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can\u2019t win them all, I guess.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading8976_23043d-54, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading8976_23043d-54[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading8976_23043d-54\"]{font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading8976_23043d-54 mark, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading8976_23043d-54[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading8976_23043d-54\"] mark{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading8976_23043d-54 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading8976_23043d-54\">Where I Stayed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>In Placencia we stayed in a \u201cseaside room\u201d at the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.seasprayhotel.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">SeaSpray Hotel<\/a>, and liked it. The room was (just) big enough for two of us, with hot water, fan and refrigerator, and only a short stumble to the beach. The restaurant served up decent meals at similar prices to most others around town, and the manager was knowledgeable and helpful. We paid $46\/night, which was fairly typical for Placencia \u2013 it was worth getting a room closer to the ocean to catch the ever-present breeze.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On Caye Caulker we stayed at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.agoda.com\/axios-sun-apartments-caye-caulker\/hotel\/caye-caulker-bz.html?cid=1654644\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener sponsored nofollow\">Axios Condos<\/a>. Our room was spacious, with a small dining area and kitchen separate to the bedroom, hot water and a\/c, and we were more than happy with it. We paid a little over $50\/night.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_2cc164-27 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-8976_2cc164-27 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-8976_2cc164-27\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Have you been to Belize? What did you think of it? Do you agree with my assessment of budget travel in the country, or think I couldn\u2019t be more wrong? Let me know!<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Bus image via <a href=\"https:\/\/flic.kr\/p\/c9seam\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">WHardcastle<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After a quick side trip to Tikal, we returned to Belize and headed for the coast. What it lacked in jungles&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":8978,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_lmt_disableupdate":"yes","_lmt_disable":"","_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[64],"tags":[108,172,505],"country":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Belize, I Like You, But...<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"There&#039;s a lot to like about Belize - its beaches, jungles and ruins in particular. 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