Loving My Neighbourhood: A Quick Fitzroy Guide

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On and off over the last decade or more, I’ve been living in Fitzroy, a mile or two north of the central city in Melbourne, Australia. Not to put too fine a point on it, I love it. More than anywhere I’ve lived in the past, Fitzroy and its surrounding area is a neighbourhood with personality. 

Melbourne’s first–and smallest–suburb, it’s crammed full of fantastic restaurants, bars, galleries, and heritage buildings that thankfully haven’t been knocked down by overzealous developers.

From the crowded pavement cafes of Brunswick Street to the local pubs tucked away down quiet back streets, from the pumping live music scene to the wide open parkland of Carlton Gardens, I will–and happily do – spend hours just wandering round enjoying everything the area has to offer.

Here’s my highly subjective tour of Fitzroy that takes in a few of the places that I return to time and again. I’ve still got plenty left to explore, however, so if you have a favourite spot in this little slice of Melbourne’s inner north, I’d love to hear about it!

There’s no shortage of incredible breakfast options in and around this neighbourhood. If the sun is shining and your hangover can handle the brightness, find an outdoor table at Stagger Lee’s on the corner of Brunswick and Victoria Streets, and enjoy one of the best brunches in the area.

My personal favourite is the anchovies (don’t knock it til you’ve tried it, they aren’t anything like the tiny salted versions you get on pizzas!), but I’ve tried half a dozen other options on the menu as well and never come back disappointed.

Toast, bacon, sausage, eggs, avocado, tomato, hash browns, and lemon on a plate
Big breakfast at Pony White, Fitzroy

Honourable mentions also go to Himalayan-influenced Elektra just down the road on Brunswick St, Pony White on George Street, and Faraday’s Cage, a delightful converted warehouse tucked away on Chapel Street. The menus all offer something a bit different, and are all absolutely worth your time and money.

If you’d prefer to just pick up a pastry and eat it while you explore, Lune Croissanterie makes probably the best croissants you’ll find outside France. They’re remarkably good, but also remarkably popular: more than anywhere else on this list, I’d suggest visiting during the week if you want to avoid an hour-long line.

Box of croissants and other pastries
Croissants and a pastry from Lune

Keep your eyes open while you’re wandering the streets, not only to avoid being run down by a tram, but also so you can check out the awesome street art that seems to make an appearance on pretty much any flat surface in the suburb. Including the side of my building, but that’s another story.

I’ve got no idea how much of it is officially sanctioned–and if so, who by–but regardless, it’s fantastic.  There’s plenty of it on Rose Street, and I’ve spotted some great pieces in various spots on Fitzroy and Victoria Streets, but it all changes regularly and there’ll be something new by the time you read this. Suffice to say, there are some very talented people out there.

Also on Rose St (between Brunswick and Nicholson Sts) is the weekend Rose Street Artists’ Market where you can happily while away half an hour or so. It’s nice and small–ideal for people like me who start to get market rage after not very long–and because all of the stuff for sale is made by local artisans, it tends to be different every time you go there.

It’s a great place to find an unusual gift, one-off piece of clothing, or unique reminder of your time in Melbourne. I’ve bought a random selection of stuff from there over the years, from weird drink coasters to locally-themed plant pots and t-shirts, and there’s always something new that catches my eye.

Once you’re done, head back to Brunswick St and spend the rest of the morning checking out the array of bookshops, fashion stores, gift and art shops, plant stores, and whatever else you can think of.  Personally I find the best section is between about Palmer St and Rose St, but I’m hardly a shopping guru, so feel free to explore further afield and disagree!

Gertrude St also has a wide range of cool little shops and galleries to explore, as well as some genuinely excellent (and popular) cafes like Archies All Day, so allow plenty of time to wander down there as well.  The thing I like about both of these streets is that most of the stores are independently-owned–there are very few chain stores in the area, thank god.

This may mean that prices are a bit higher than in the malls, but the quality, uniqueness, and experience of actually spending any time in them is so much better! Not to mention there’s a good chance your money is going to a local, rather than some huge, faceless corporation.

City park with trees and flowers in the foreground and skyscrapers in the background

If you need a bit of chill out time after all that shopping, head over to Carlton Gardens and the Melbourne Museum. With several hectares of grassy areas and hundreds of inviting trees, there’s no better place to lie and read a book for a few hours.

The museum is one of Melbourne’s premier attractions–and the largest in the Southern Hemisphere–so you could easily spend a whole day just exploring there. Find out what the main exhibit is, at least, to see whether it’s worth coming back to check it out another day.

By this stage you’ll undoubtedly be in need of liquid refreshment. I feel like I’ve been on a one-man mission to find the best coffee in Fitzroy for a long time now, and a couple of my current favourites are Bell St Coffee Window (clue’s in the name) and on the other side of Brunswick Street and down a bit, Morning Frank.

They both epitomise what makes Fitzroy so great: small, local places that don’t try to do a million different things or cater for everyone, but just crank out consistently excellent coffee with a smile day after day. And that’s why I keep going back…day after day.

If you’re looking for something a little stronger and the sun is out, there’s nothing better than a cold drink or five during an afternoon session at The Standard Hotel on Fitzroy St. Don’t let the innocuous exterior fool you–one of the best and biggest beer gardens in the area lies inside.

Wine on a table in the beer garden of the Standard Hotel, Fitzroy
Wine in the sun at the Standard

With plenty of tables and shady spots under the trees and umbrellas, excellent pub grub, live music now and then, and a wide selection of cold beers on tap, this friendly neighbourhood pub is an absolute winner. Get there early to get a seat outside at the weekends, though–it’s a popular spot with the locals.

Once (or if) you manage to drag yourself away from the Standard, stumble a couple of hundred metres back up Brunswick St for dinner at The Vegie Bar. A vegetarian-only Fitzroy institution, this place has been around since the late 80s, and despite being huge, seems to packed to the rafters every time I visit.

That’s not an issue, though–turnover is fast and there’s a cozy little area out the back where you can enjoy a drink while waiting for a table to free up. I’m not vegetarian and yet I choose to dine there regularly, which is probably the best review I can give it.

Cheap, tasty, and excellent food, with funky staff and an eclectic clientele, for me this place totally sums up what I love about this neighbourhood.

To finish off the night, there’s an enormous collection of pubs and bars to drink yourself stupid and dance the night away (or to regale the locals with your vast collection of interesting stories). The Evelyn has live music from bands that you’ve probably never heard of but who will be headlining a festival somewhere in a few years.

Chicken burger and fries on paper wrapping
Chicken burger at the Rainbow

The Provincial transforms itself from an almost wine bar-esque feel during the week to a heaving mass of humanity at the weekends, while the Rainbow attracts a slightly older crowd that makes the most of the beer garden, especially on a Sunday evening when a band invariably shows up for a few hours.

Whatever your style, you’ll find somewhere to spend the night (and probably much of the early morning) nearby.

So, that’s my neighbourhood, and I love it.  Feel free to comment and add your own favourite places below – who knows, there’s a good chance that I’ll see you there!

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5 Responses to “Loving My Neighbourhood: A Quick Fitzroy Guide

  • Valerie Looi
    14 years ago

    I concur! 🙂 You bring back memories…!
    Gluttony’s & the Vegie bar are my Melbourne must-visits! I dream of Gluttony’s cakes. 🙂
    And Jaspers for the coffee beans.
    To add to your list:
    The Provincial does great pizza, too – but not as good as Ladro’s on Gertrude St. But BOOK for Ladro’s!
    Mario’s on Brunswick st. do an amazing coffee & has a great atmosphere.
    Try Babka’s (just down from the Vegie Bar) for fantastic bread, brunch, and lemon meringue tart.
    For something a bit different – try the Afghan Gallery for dinner.
    After work drinks were always at Dante’s on Gertrude St…but I haven’t been there in ages.
    And one must credit the person who cleverly named the bar off Smith St: “Lambs Go Bar” 🙂
    Yeah, I do miss Fitzroy/Collingwood.

  • I’ve been living in Fitzroy for a little over a year now and I have to agree with everything in this post. When we leave midyear to live overseas, I will always look back fondly on the time I lived in this charmed suburb.

    I’ll miss Black Cat, The Standard, Little Creatures & Bar Open! And of course, I’ll miss picking up my coffee at Jasper’s and squeezing myself into the tight tables of Atomica!

  • often felt something amiss when i lived in diff places. realised you gotta make your place your own ie immerse yourself with the local community. thanks for the post

  • Thanks for all of the great suggestions and comments so far – I’ve def. got some cool new places to check out now along with the old favourites! 🙂

  • Simon Brodie
    14 years ago

    Shamless plug regarding my Melbourne International Comedy Festival show Fitzroyalty “A know your Brunswick St tour”
    Full details including reviews here http://www.comedyfestival.com.au/2010/season/shows/fitzroyalty-a-know-your-brunswick-st-tour/

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