There’s something good about Phuket after all
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I used to hate Phuket.
The first time I went there back in 2010 I couldn’t wait to get out of the place. In the middle of the wet season the combination of rain-swept beaches, desperate-looking sex tourists and overpriced everything had me screaming for less after having spent months in far nicer places.
I was only there to learn to sail, and the few miserable days I spent in the south of the island before and after the course made me pretty sure I’d never be back. Even when my flights from Melbourne took me via Phuket back in November, I didn’t leave the airport and took the first plane out of there.
Our trip to the islands last week happened to coincide with some friends holidaying at Nai Yang, however, so I grudgingly agreed to head back for a few days to meet up.
And … well … surprisingly, I actually kind of liked it.
First impressions weren’t great mind you, as the airport taxi mafia were in full voice as we left the terminal. I knew full well that the guesthouse we’d planned to stay at was no more than two or three km away, so being quoted 400+ baht to get there just wasn’t going to happen. Had we not been travelling for 15 hours already we would probably have just walked it, but stumbling around exhausted in the dark with backpacks on isn’t my idea of fun.
Finally bargaining a private (ie, unlicensed) driver down to a slightly more sensible price, he laughed as he drove out of the airport. “Only 5 minutes”, he chuckled. Yeah, no shit …
As we walked down the dirt track to the beach the following morning I wasn’t sure what to expect. I knew the area was popular with families and (like the rest of Phuket) package holiday-makers, and something I had read online mentioned the easy availability of umbrellas on the beach.
Well yes, I think that might be right.
Away from the deep-frying hoards, though, the beach was quite lovely. Nai Yang has some of the whitest sand I’ve seen in Thailand, and the national park that starts at the northern end means that development is at least mildly contained.
The water was warm and clear, the beach was clean and the sun shone the whole time. People were friendly and relaxed, with only the occasional lazy call of ‘taxi?’ disturbing the peace of the dusty main street. If I was there on a two week vacation from the real world I’m sure this little stretch of coastline would seem like heaven.
Having seen my own slices of paradise in the past, though, this wasn’t quite it for me. The prices left me gasping – Phuket is very expensive compared to elsewhere in Thailand, and Nai Yang is no exception. If I wanted to pay three bucks for a latte I could head back to Australia. Signs promising such delights as ThaiCurryNotSpicy didn’t excite me much either.
Happy hour prices at the beachside bars were more expensive than standard prices on other islands, and with an abundance of resorts truly budget accommodation choices simply didn’t exist. There didn’t seem to be much in the way of local culture either, with everything I could see set up to cater for tourists.
Having said all that it was nice to relax and do not much for a couple of days, hang out with old friends and enjoy the simple pleasures in life. Like, for instance, being smuggled into their resort and floating around in the swimming pool drinking vodka for a few hours, or feeling the sand under our toes as we ate, drank and watched the sun set over those damn umbrellas.
Did I love Nai Yang? No, I didn’t – it was too expensive and resort-ified for me. Give me backpackers and bamboo huts any day.
Did I like it, at least? Actually I did, and given how little I thought of the rest of Phuket that’s quite a statement.
I still wouldn’t go anywhere near the southernmost beaches again, but I now won’t write off the entire island either.
Go to Phuket for sure.
Just stay in the north if you want to enjoy the experience.
Have you ever been to Mai Khao beach in Phuket? Also in the north, very close to the airport and very peaceful. Not your typical Phuket experience: tranquility, beach bungalows, great sand and sea. We loved it.
It’s awesome that you went back and ended up changing your mind. I’ve never been there but it’s beautiful. I’ll have to add it to my “travel wish list”.
Just avoid Patong, and there are surely a few good things to be found–although there are SO MANY better beaches in Thailand, I’d have a hard time going back to Phuket (unless it was to meet up with people). Glad it wasn’t too horrible for you 🙂
Phuket Old Town, Wat Chalong and the Chinese Shrines are where you will find the culture and festivals such as the Phuket Vegetarian Festival will literally blow your mind for culture (not for the squeamish though).
It is likely every beach and island destination will go the same way as Phuket eventually, but glad you enjoyed your stay at Nai Yang and had something positive to write about the experience.
I wouldn’t avoid the southern most beaches completely, you just have to know where to look and there are countless beautiful islands just off shore (less than 30 mins in a long tail) where you can snorkel off the white sand beaches in crystal clear waters.
From what I recall, Phuket’s beaches have been eroding, so the clean sand and water is a recent effort.
Love Nai Yang – prefer to stay at Indigo Pearl – AWESOME place!
Did you see the abandoned hotel at the end of the beach ?